Bisley: In your new cookbook, Appetites, you have a section called “Big Fucking Steak.” In Kitchen Confidential, you wrote this about vegetarians: “To me, life without veal stock, pork fat, sausage, organ meat, demi-glace, or even stinky cheese is a life not worth living. Vegetarians are the enemy of everything good and decent in the human spirit, and an affront to all I stand for, the pure enjoyment of food.”

Bourdain: I can certainly eat vegetarian food in India for a considerable period of time. They actually make good vegetarian dishes. Appetites is a representation of how I cook at home, and my personal preferences, and doesn’t pretend to be anything other than that.

That line’s the old-school French tradition I came out of. To live without any of those things would be very, very difficult for me. They’re all fundamental ingredients. I equate them with joy, pleasure: that’s the business chefs are in! We are in the pleasure business. I’m not your doctor, or your therapist. …

Bisley: You recently gave a feisty response to a long-winded San Francisco animal-rights protester who was going after you about eating meat. You said, “I like dogs. But how much worse can they be than, like, kale?”

Bourdain: At least she had the courage of her convictions. I thought her malice was misplaced. I’ve never eaten dog. She went on a little long. A sense of humor is a terrible thing to waste. And I think that’s the problem with a lot of animal activists, with whom I share a shocking amount of overlap actually. I mean, I’m against shark-finning, I take no pleasure in seeing animals hurt or suffer, I like humanely raised animals. I’m against fast food. I’m against fur, animal testing for cosmetics. What annoys me is these people are so devoid of any sense of humor or irony. And their priorities are so fucked! I mean Aleppo is happening right now. They also threaten to murder humans who piss them off with a regularity I find disturbing.

Bisley: I remember the outer islands of French Polynesia; including meeting lovely indigenous people for whom dog-eating is an occasional traditional practice.

Bourdain: Let’s call this criticism what it is: racism. There are a lot of practices from the developing world that I find personally repellent, from my privileged Western point of view. But I don’t feel like I have such a moral high ground that I can walk around lecturing people in developing nations on how they should live their lives.

I like to help where I can. If I can minimize the market for shark fin, that would be great. If I could help find a solution for traditional Chinese medicine that values Rhino horn over Viagra I would. I would donate to a fund to distribute Viagra for free in places where they think rhino horn is gonna give you a boner.

The way in which people dismiss whole centuries-old cultures–often older than their own and usually non-white–with just utter contempt aggravates me. People who suggest I shouldn’t go to a country like China, look at or film it, because some people eat dog there, I find that racist, frankly. Understand people first: their economic, living situation. I’ve spent time in the not-so-Democratic Republic of the Congo. The forests there are denuded of any living thing. It’s not because they particularly like to eat bush meat, it’s because they’re incredibly hungry, and seeking to survive.

One thing I constantly found in my travels, which is ignored by animal activism, is that where people live close to the edge, they are struggling to feed their families, and are living under all varieties of pressures that are largely unknown to these activists personally. Where people are suffering, animals who live in their orbit are suffering terribly. In cultures where people don’t have the luxury of considering the feelings of a chicken, they tend to treat them rather poorly. Dogs do not live good lives in countries where people are starving and oppressed. Maybe if we spent a little of [our] attention on how humans live, I think as a consequence many of these people would have the luxury to think beyond their immediate needs, like water to drink and wash, and food to live. A little more empathy for human beings to balance out this overweening concern for puppies would be a more moral and effective strategy.